Rieux‑Volvestre, Morlaàs & A Shower‑Block Escape

Sometimes a road trip is about the destination. Sometimes it’s about the journey and sometimes it’s about getting across France as efficiently as possible without losing your patience, your sense of direction, or — in my case — your dignity in a shower block.

We pointed the campervan west, picked a couple of Aires to break up the drive, and set off across the country.

Rieux‑Volvestre

Rural Quiet, Medieval Charm & Zero Stress

Our first stop was Rieux‑Volvestre, a tiny rural commune tucked into the rolling countryside of southwest France.

It’s the kind of place where the loudest noise is a pigeon landing, the aire is so peaceful you automatically whisper and the village looks like it hasn’t changed much in the last couple of hundred years.

Rieux‑Volvestre is known for its medieval centre, complete with half‑timbered houses, narrow lanes, and the impressive Cathedral of Saint‑Marie, which has been supervising village life for centuries.

We wandered around, enjoyed the stillness, and soaked up the kind of rural calm that makes you forget the rest of the world exists.

The Shower‑Block Escape

A 70s Cop Movie, But With Flip‑Flops

Rieux‑Volvestre was peaceful, Quiet kind of Idyllic. Birds chirping, medieval buildings glowing in the evening sun, the Aire calm enough to hear your own thoughts.

So then I went for a shower.

I’d had a lovely hot shower after which, I reached for the exit door, pushed the release button and… Nothing. I Pulled… Still nothing. I tried again with the optimism of a man who believes doors should open when asked politely... Still nothing.

For a brief moment, I genuinely considered the possibility that this was it — I now lived here. This was my home, I would grow old in this shower block. I genuinely pictured the headlines: “British Tourist Found Living in Shower Block, Claims He ‘Adapted Quickly’.”

But then it came to me in an instant, and channelling every 70s cop show ever made, I delivered a heroic, slow‑motion, action‑movie door kick.

And it worked... the door burst open.

I stumbled into the daylight like a man escaping captivity, and I'm sure somewhere in the distance I heard a funky bassline playing. I half expected someone to hand me aviators and a badge.

Throwing my towel over my shoulder I calmly headed for the Campervan.

The Drive West

Smooth, Scenic & Blessedly Uneventful

The next morning we continued west toward Morlaàs, a historic town just north of Pau. The drive was smooth, quiet, and drama‑free — no sat‑nav meltdowns, no surprise tolls, no “why is this road suddenly a goat track?” moments. Just rolling countryside, good progress, and the smug satisfaction of a plan working.

Morlaàs

Having fully recovered from my dramatic escape, we explored Morlaàs, a town with deep medieval roots.

Long before Pau took over, Morlaàs was actually the capital of Béarn.
Today it’s known for:

• the Church of Sainte‑Foy, a Romanesque gem with intricate carvings
• quiet, traditional streets
• and a relaxed, small‑town atmosphere that forces you to slow down

The Aire was peaceful, tidy, and exactly what we needed after a day of driving.

Two Stops, One Escape Scene & A Lot of Countryside

Our dash across France wasn’t dramatic (except for the shower block), but it was:

• efficient
• scenic
• peaceful
• and full of those little moments that make road trips memorable

Rieux‑Volvestre gave us rural medieval charm.
Morlaàs gave us history… and a door that underestimated me.

Onward we go.