Dijon: Mustard, Medieval Majesty & The Great Water Dump Valve Quest

Our stop in Dijon delivered lakeside calm, grand architecture, botanical gardens, and a dinner with a twist, with a chaotic cycling tour of three campervan dealerships in search of a water dump valve that apparently doesn’t exist in France.

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Dijon: Mustard, Medieval Majesty & The Great Water Dump Valve Quest

Some cities are famous for food.
Some are famous for history.
And then there’s Dijon, which is famous for both — plus a surprising number of cyclists who appear out of nowhere like silent, Lycra‑clad ninjas.

We rolled in expecting a simple few nights stop over. We left with sore legs, full stomachs, and the knowledge that France does not, under any circumstances, believe in our size of water dump valve.

But let’s start at the beginning.

Camping du Lac Kir

A Lakeside Base With a Built‑In Cycle Route

Our home for the next few nights was Camping du Lac Kir, a peaceful, leafy site beside a lake that looks like it was designed for postcards and paddleboards.

The best part, was a dedicated cycle and pedestrian walkway runs right past the campsite, following the river all the way into Dijon.

It’s flat, scenic, and full of joggers who look like they’re training for something serious.

Along the way you pass a sluice gate, which is one of those things you don’t think about until you’re standing next to one going, “Wow… that’s a lot of water being bossed around.” it’s oddly hypnotic.

The Great Water Dump Valve Quest

A Tour de France (But Only of Campervan Dealerships)

Before exploring Dijon, we had a mission: to see if we could find a replacement fresh‑water dump valve that previously started to dribble. Simple right? (Wrong).

We cycled (heroically I might add) to three different campervan dealerships around the city. Each time we explained what we needed. Each time the staff looked at the valve, frowned, and delivered the same verdict:

“Ah. Non. We do not use this size in France.”

Apparently our valve is a rare British species, unknown and untrusted on the continent.

By dealership number three, we were sweaty, defeated, and starting to suspect we were starring in a hidden‑camera show. Being lunch time, and in the heart of the commercial district, most places was closed (in true French tradition). The only place open for something for lunch was a Burger King, who now do a tasty line in wraps, for those looking for a healthy alternative.

Refreshed we cycled back to the city, and decided to focus on things that didn’t involve plumbing. (but did involve brewing)

A City That Knows How to Show Off

Dijon is one of those places where you walk around constantly saying,
“Look at that building!”
followed by
“No, look at THAT building!”

It’s a city of:

  • medieval streets
  • Renaissance mansions
  • grand boulevards
  • ornate stonework
  • and the occasional gargoyle who looks like he’s judging your life choices

We wandered past the Opera House, which looks like it should only be approached while wearing something dramatic and flowing.

Then the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, which is so big and so grand that it feels like it should come with its own postcode.

Every corner reveals something impressive — a church, a tower, a square, a doorway that looks like it belongs in a fantasy novel.

Dijon is basically an architectural show‑off, and we loved it.

Jardin Botanique de l’Arquebuse

A Green Oasis With Science on the Side

Just when we thought Dijon couldn’t surprise us anymore, we wandered into the Jardin Botanique de l’Arquebuse.

It’s part botanical garden, part natural history museum, part “ooh look at that plant”.

There are:

  • themed gardens
  • shady paths
  • ponds
  • educational signs
  • and enough flowers to make you consider learning Latin

It’s peaceful, colourful, and the perfect antidote to cycling around industrial estates looking for plumbing parts that don’t exist.

Dinner in a Little Restaurant

After cycling, sightseeing, and existential plumbing despair, we treated ourselves to a meal in a little restaurant in the old town. We ate, we relaxed, we people‑watched, and the food came with a little twist!

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A Brief History of Dijon

Because This City Has Been Important for a Long Time

Dijon wasn’t just a medieval city — it was the medieval city.

A few highlights:

  • Capital of the Duchy of Burgundy, one of Europe’s most powerful states
  • Home to dukes who were richer than kings and dressed accordingly
  • A major centre of art, trade, and culture
  • A city that somehow survived centuries of wars with most of its beauty intact

It’s a place where history isn’t just in museums — it’s in the streets, the stones, the rooftops, and the way the whole city feels like it’s been curated rather than built.

Back at the Van

We had another quiet night beside the lake

After cycling, sightseeing, eating, and failing to buy plumbing parts, we returned to Lac Kir.

The lake was calm.
The air was warm.
The van was peaceful.
And the dump valve — still the wrong size for France — sat quietly, mocking us.

Dijon was meant to be a simple stop over. Instead, it became a days of beauty, comedy, and unexpected cardio.

And honestly?
We wouldn’t change a thing.