Arras: The City of Beautiful Squares, Underground Secrets & One Very Content Campervan

Our stop in Arras delivered everything: a peaceful riverside Aire, jaw‑dropping Flemish squares, beer with the locals, and a crash course in the city’s surprisingly dramatic history.

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Arras: The City of Beautiful Squares, Underground Secrets & One Very Content Campervan

There are places you visit because they’re famous.
There are places you visit because they’re convenient.
And then there’s Arras — the place you visit because every motorhomer you’ve ever met has said, “Oh mate, you have to go to Arras.”

So we did.
And honestly? They were right.

Aire Camping‑Car Arras Vallée de la Scarpe

A Peaceful Riverside Base

Our home for the night was the Aire Camping‑Car Arras Vallée de la Scarpe, a name so long it feels like it should come with its own parking instructions.

But what a spot:

  • Quiet riverside setting
  • Flat, easy parking
  • A short, scenic walk into the city
  • Just enough other vans to feel safe, but not enough to feel like a touring‑caravan festival

The van settled in immediately, like a dog circling three times before flopping down.

We, meanwhile, set off to explore.

Wandering Arras

A City That Looks Like It Was Designed by Someone Who Really Likes Symmetry

Arras is one of those places where you walk five minutes and suddenly feel underdressed.
The buildings are elegant.
The streets are tidy.
Even the pigeons look like they’ve completed a degree in urban etiquette.

We wandered through narrow lanes, past cafés, bakeries, and shops selling things we absolutely didn’t need but definitely wanted.
And then we stepped into the place Arras is famous for.

The Squares of Arras

Where Flemish‑Baroque Architecture Shows Off

Arras doesn’t have one beautiful square.
It has two.
Because apparently one wasn’t enough.

Place des Héros

The smaller, more intimate square — if you can call something surrounded by 17th‑century Flemish‑Baroque townhouses “intimate.”

It’s the kind of place where you half expect a painter to appear and start capturing the light.

Grand Place

Then you walk a few steps and boom — the Grand Place opens up like the city has just pulled back a curtain and said, “Ta‑daaa!”

It’s huge.
It’s dramatic.
It’s lined with arcades and gabled facades that look like someone spent far too long arranging them in Photoshop.

And right in the middle of this architectural masterpiece…
is a car park.

A full, unapologetic, “yes this is the centre of our UNESCO‑adjacent beauty, please enjoy these Peugeots” car park.

It’s incredible.
It’s chaotic.
It’s peak France.

There’s something wonderfully French about standing in a square so beautiful it could be on a postcard, while a Renault Clio does a 17‑point turn between two 17th‑century façades.

It’s like the city planners said, “This square is stunning — but what if we added… parking?”

We stood there for a moment, quietly absorbing the view.
Then we did what any self‑respecting travellers would do:

We found a bar.

Beer With the Locals

The True Cultural Experience

There’s something magical about sitting in a European square with a cold beer in hand.

The sun was warm, the atmosphere was lively, and the locals were in that perfect mood where they’re friendly but also slightly amused by the British people who keep saying “this is lovely” every 30 seconds.

We sipped, we people‑watched and had a great time.

A Brief (But Entertaining) History of Arras

Because This City Has Layers — Literally

Arras has been around for a long time — long enough that if you dig anywhere in the city, you’re likely to hit:

  • Roman ruins
  • Medieval tunnels
  • Or a stern archaeologist telling you to stop digging

A few highlights:

  • The Belfry — UNESCO‑listed, stunning, and absolutely not something we climbed because we value our knees.
  • The Boves — a network of underground tunnels used for storage, wartime shelter, and probably at least one questionable medieval party.
  • WWI History — Arras played a major role, with New Zealand and British tunnellers carving out entire underground cities beneath the streets.

It’s a place where history isn’t just in museums — it’s literally under your feet.

Back to the Aire

A Perfect End to a Perfect Stop

After a day of wandering, gawping, and drinking beer like honorary locals, we strolled back to the Aire along the river.

The van was waiting patiently, still dry, still behaving, still wearing its Marigold‑finger patch with pride.

We settled in for the night, listening to the quiet hum of the city and feeling smug about choosing Arras as our first proper French stop in 2026.

Nothings says France like wine and cheese (Gromit)